Porsche 914

Start with identity, paperwork and originality. The strongest cars carry a continuous Porsche or recognised-specialist service file, matching numbers, both keys, complete books and tools and — where available — the Porsche Certificate of Authenticity and factory build documentation. For the 914/6, focus on matching-numbers cars with continuous history, documented flat-six installation from new and no rust in the hell hole (the closed section behind the driver's door where water collects). For 914/4 cars, condition, originality and rust status dominate over specification.

Inspection should be led by a Porsche or VW air-cooled specialist. On 914/6 cars, verify original 2.0-litre flat-six installation and factory records; on 914/4 cars, verify engine-family history and confirm the car has not been converted or heavily re-shelled. A proper pre-purchase inspection includes cold-start behaviour, an undertray-off inspection of the engine and gearbox, chassis and suspension survey, brake condition and a long enough road test to expose heat- and load-related faults. Deferred maintenance on a specialist Porsche is almost always more expensive than buying a better-sorted example.

Use a paint-depth gauge and a lift inspection. Confirm any PPF history; inspect splitters, sills and undertrays for evidence of contact; and price concealed accident or corrosion damage severely. Rust in wheel arches, sills, floors and battery-tray areas is the primary body concern on the earlier cars.

Specification, colour and factory options move values meaningfully. Buy the best-documented example in the most desirable specification you can justify rather than a tired car of a rarer derivative that will need years of corrective work.